미국 섬유 예술 운동 시기에 나타난 금속 편직 장신구의 형식적 특성과 미학적 가치 연구 -알린 피시(Arline Fisch)의 금속 편직 작품을 중심으로-

초록

This paper examines the formal characteristics and aesthetic value of metal knitting techniques, focusing on metal knitting jewelry developed during the American Textile Art Movement. Specifically, the analysis focuses on the work of Arline Fisch, who expanded metal knitting into a unique formative language within the field of contemporary American jewelry. Metal knitting, a technique that applies the structural principles of textile craft to metal materials, is characterized by flexible spatial structures, an emphasis on tactile texture, and visual effects based on repetition and rhythm. This study focuses on four key techniques repeatedly utilized in Fisch’s work: netting, wrapping and coiling, braiding and plaiting, and openwork embroidery. Netting, a technique that interweaves and binds metal wires to form a network structure, emphasizing structural stability and spatial permeability. The winding and twisting technique involves winding, rolling, and overlapping metal wires, creating a three-dimensional rhythm that combines tension and flexibility. Braiding and twisting techniques intertwine and weave multiple metal wires to create organized linear textures and structural cohesion. The perforated embroidery technique creates open linear patterns through cutting and joining metal, highlighting the effect of spatial penetration. Through a comprehensive analysis of each technique, this study sought to demonstrate that knitted metal jewelry is a formative experiment that transcends the properties of fiber and metal. The research revealed that Pisi’s knitted metal jewelry transforms the rigid material of metal into a flexible, fabric-like structure, establishing a formative language that harmonizes rational structure and emotional aesthetics. Furthermore, mesh weaving, winding and twisting, braiding and twisting, and perforated embroidery techniques function as creative methods that reconfigure the material properties and structural language of metal. They offer significant implications for contemporary jewelry design by expanding jewelry into a medium that connects the body, space, and material experiences. This can be evaluated as a case reflecting the aesthetic currents of the American fiber arts movement, which aimed to expand materials, fuse genres, and redefine the status of craft as a formative art form. This paper provides a theoretical foundation for understanding the formal aesthetics and contemporary practices of metal knitted jewelry, and aims to offer academic implications for future research on creative formative art in jewelry design and craft.

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