경태람 기법의 현대적 재해석을 통한 장신구 디자인 연구

초록

Cloisonné (Jingtailan), a quintessential Chinese intangible cultural heritage craft, has long been confined to a formal system centered on display-oriented objects. During its transition into contemporary jewelry design, it has yet to fully address the context of ‘body aesthetics’ central to the field. This study aims to systematically analyze the transition mechanism of Jingtailan techniques into contemporary jewelry and establish a practical framework for this evolution. The research methodology involves deriving the technical characteristics of Jingtailan through a literature review, followed by deconstructing and analyzing four formal elements—form, pattern, color, and material— from a design studies perspective. The practical applicability of the constructed framework is verified through a comparative analysis of seven representative cases across high-end, commercial, and independent designer brands. The findings indicate that the modern transition of Jingtailan centers on ‘wire inlay’ (qiasi) as the core formal variable. This involves: ‘overall reduction’ and ‘motif deconstruction’ at the formative level; ‘symbolization of characteristics’ and ‘structural abstraction’ at the pattern level; ‘reconfiguration of color range’ and ‘optical texture adjustment’ at the color level; and ‘substitution of base materials’ and ‘combination of heterogeneous materials’ at the material level. These results confirm that Jingtailan organically transitions from an ‘object-centered’ logic to a ‘body-centered’ modern aesthetic context. This study typologizes eight strategies for the modern transformation of Jingtailan and identifies the triple function of wire inlay (outlining, structural support, and chromatic segmentation) as a key variable. Ultimately, it provides an analytical framework and practical methodology for the contemporary evolution of traditional crafts.

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