프랑스 아르누보 운동 시기 플리크 아 주르(Plique-à-jour) 칠보 장신구의 조형적 특성에 관한 연구 -르네 랄리크(René Lalique)를 중심으로-

초록

This study aims to elucidate the formative characteristics of plique à jour cloisonné jewelry from the French Art Nouveau movement and examine its art-historical significance. The scope of the study focused on René Lalique’s plique à jour works produced from the 1890s to the early 1910s, combining literature review with artwork analysis. First, the historical background of the Art Nouveau movement and its naturalistic aesthetics were reviewed. Focusing on three core natural themes—women, insects, and plants—the formative language and symbolic meaning embodied in the plique à jour cloisonné technique were systematically examined. By summarizing the technical characteristics and developmental process of Lalique’s plique à jour technique, the researcher theoretically established that this technique was not simply a decorative technique but a formative medium that combined light and structure. Based on this, the researcher comprehensively analyzed the works by identifying five elements: color, craft structure, formative expression, optical effects, and symbolic meaning. As a result, we confirmed that Lalique’s plique à jour cloisonné creates organic chromatic variations through the overlapping of transparent and translucent colors, and that its unsupported, translucent structure transforms jewelry into a structural medium that accepts light. Furthermore, motifs of women, insects, and plants, through organic curves and asymmetrical compositions, form an integrated formative system. Light penetration and the overlapping of colors create visual images that change with time and environment. Symbolically, these motifs comprehensively reveal the vitality of nature and the meanings of creation, transformation, and circulation. Furthermore, a comparative analysis of the jewelry and cloisonné works of contemporary artists Gallé and Tiffany revealed that while sharing naturalistic motifs, they differ in their technical structure and optical processing. Through this, we aimed to highlight the unique position of Lalique’s plique à jour technique in its integration of light penetration structures and organic form. In summary, French Art Nouveau plique à jour cloisonné jewelry can be defined as an integrated formative system that combines the figurative use of color and light, the innovation of transparent craft structures, and the symbolism of natural motifs. This is significant in that it expanded jewelry into an artistic medium where structure, color, light, and symbolism are intertwined. René Lalique’s work is considered a prime example of this intense embodiment of these characteristics.

키워드